A.
Stairs may be pre-assembled, moved into position and attached,
or built in place.
PRE-ASSEMBLED:
The completed stringer is placed on the floor with the brackets
facing up. The risers are stood on end and attached to the
brackets by screwing from the back with 1 1/4" screws.
Once the risers are attached to the stringer, the opposite
stringer is placed over the ends of the standing risers and
also attached by screwing from the back. The two stringers
(joined by the risers) are laid on the floor with the tread
surface of the brackets facing up. The treads are placed into
position and firmly knocked down into the bracket and back
against the riser.
2 1/2" screws are inserted through the top of the tread
into the top of the riser every 9". The stair is placed
onto its side again and 1 1/4" screws are then inserted
into the bottom of the tread through holes in the bracket.
Once complete, 2 1/2" screws are placed through the back
of the riser into the back of the tread every 9". Check
that the back of the tread remains straight. The stair is
now placed into position and attached.
BUILT
IN PLACE: In some locations it is not possible to pre-assemble
and the stair must be built in place. The two stringers are
attached in position. Then all the risers are attached to
the brackets, using 1 1/4" screws. Often, with this type
of construction, it is not possible to attach some or all
of the stringers by blind screwing from the bottom, using
11/4" screws through the brackets. In these cases, the
treads are attached by screwing from the top, using 2"#12
galvanized, counter sunk, self- tapping screws.
Starting from the bottom tread, the tread
is placed in position with its back hard against the riser.
The tread is knocked firmly against the bracket at both
ends, producing marks on the underside of the tread left
by the raised holes in the bracket. The tread is removed
and pre-drilled with a 3/16" at the marks through the
tread. The tread is put back into position and attached
to the brackets using 2" self-tapping screws through
the pre-drilled holes. Then 2 1/2" screws are placed
into the back of the tread through the bottom of the next
riser. The next tread up is secured until the top. The back
of the top tread is attached to a 2 X 4 support (see
box instructions). See video below.
•For
more information see our assembly procedure for INTERIOR
STAIRS.
A.
The stair may be attached at the top, using appropriate metal
anchors, straps or plates. Check your local codes. The stair
bottom may be attached to a 2 X 4 cleat secured to the floor
or footing.
3.
Q. How do I attach and finish to a wall?
A.
When building against a wall, the stringer may be nailed or
screwed to the studs. If there are fire considerations at
the wall, fire rated sheet rock may be required to be attached
first and the stringer secured over the sheetrock. Check your
local codes. If this is not a requirement, the stringer may
be attached to the studs and the sheetrock brought down on
top of the stringer and finished with moulding. Fire blocking
may be required between the studs. Again, check your local
codes.
4.
Q. How do I cut inside the stair trim?
A.
See box instructions for interior stair trim. The trim material
is laid on the stair and marked and cut, as shown in the box
instructions.
5. Q.
How do I do an initial 2x6 stringer set-up with a gap
closure?
A. When you adjust (pivot) your brackets
to your customized rise requirement, a gap will generally
still remain between the 2x6's. Many builders leave this
gap for drainage purposes. However, many prefer the gap to
be closed. To close the gap between the 2x6's, during the
initial stringer assembly, follow these instructions (after
you have determined what your desired rise and tread need
to be and you've pivoted brackets into position). :
Insert 2 additional screws into the bottom bracket 2x6 member,
then remove the top pivot screw in the top 2x6. Close the
gap....the brackets will not move out of position. When
the gap is closed, insert all screws into the pre-marked
holes except your first bracket and last in
the run you're building. The reason for not inserting
these screws at this stage is that these 2 brackets will
normally need to be rotated out of the way, for the 3 to
4 quick skill cuts that will be required to complete your
stringer.
6.
Q. How do you finish interior stairs using the EZ Stair brackets?
A.The brackets can be used without risers
if the stair is less than 36" wide and the treads are
2x12.
10. How wide can I build the stairs with
this system?
A. Exterior stairs- build up to 7' and Interior
stairs -build up to 9'
11. When I rotate the brackets until the
gap between the 2x6's is closed, my rise and run doesn't
work.
A. Believe it or not, you are probably doing
everything correctly in setting your brackets using the spacers
and pivot screws onto the two 2x6's. More than likely, your
problem is in the next step.....adjusting the brackets whereby
you fully rotating the brackets until the gap between the
two 2x6's is completely closed. The gap is not intended to
be closed. The gap is initially set to accommodate a wide
range of motion so that you can adjust your rise height between
0" and 8-1/4". As an example, if your rise is to
be 7-1/2", using a framing square with the long side
placed on top of the tread surface of one the brackets and
the short side placed against rise surface of the next bracket,
rotate the brackets until the rise height reaches the 7-1/2" required.
There will be a gap remaining between the 2x6's. If you wish
to close the gap completely (once the brackets are set correctly)
please see our streaming animated instructional video for
the appropriate procedures.
12. How would I use EZ stairs for a solid
2X12 x16 stringer rather then the 2x6's?
A. Mark out each stringer using a framing
square as though you were going to cut the stringer out like
a conventional cut stringer. Once you have marked the stringers,
then using the wide side of the framing square (2")
mark a line 2" below each tread line. Using this new
line and the rise line, place the brackets onto the stringer
with the bracket flanges touching both lines and attach the
brackets using screws. Special stair lugs are available
at most hardware stores for attaching to the framing square
to help in marking stringers.
